Classic Coleslaw with Homemade Mayonnaise
Mayonnaise is a divisive condiment. I know that there are many people out there who are repulsed by it and will not touch a single salad that has come into contact with the egg based creamy salad dressing. It also appears somewhat mysterious in its jar in the fridge and supermarket aisles.
I am convinced that if everyone tasted real, homemade mayonnaise, if everyone saw it being made in its simplicity, they would be converted. Mayonnaise is simply egg yolks, oil and a small amount of acid (vinegar or lemon juice traditionally). A little salt for taste. That is it. Its creation is like culinary magic. Somehow two liquids whisked together become a creamy solid. The term emulsify doesn’t quite do it justice. This isn’t just salad dressing- this is chemistry.
I am also a coleslaw fanatic. It is the perfect combination of salt, acid and crunch. While I love various riffs on the classic creamy tangy coleslaw the original is by far my favourite.
Making mayo from scratch is a bit of a workout. Make this once a week and you can skip the arm curls. Or the right arm anyways. You need to whisk continuously while pouring the oil in very slowly. Enlist the help of a friend to pour the oil while you whisk. If no one is available, stable the bowl on the counter with a damp towel wrapped around the base. This will stop the bowl from moving, and allow you to pour the oil with your left hand. The mayo will keep in a sealed jar in the fridge for at least a week.
Coleslaw is always prettier when it is chopped using a food processor. If you don’t have one, a knife does the trick just fine. The measurements in this coleslaw recipe are a bit of a guideline. They depend very much on the size of the cabbage you are starting with. You can also easily halve or double the recipe depending on the number of people you are having for dinner. To make ahead- the vegetables can be chopped and kept in a ziplock bag in the fridge for up to 3 days. Similarly, the dressing can be made ahead and kept in the fridge for up to 3 days. Assemble an hour before you are ready to eat.
Homemade Mayonnaise
From Jamie Oliver
2 egg yolks
1 tsp Dijon mustard
500 ml (2 cups) combination of olive oil, vegetable oil and/or sunflower oil
1 lemon
kosher salt
Whisk the egg yolks in a bowl, then add the mustard and whisk together. Very gradually add half of the oil, whisking continuously; 3-5 minutes, or until very thick. Whisk in the juice of 1/2 the lemon to loosen the mixture and give it a paler colour. Continue to gradually add the remaining oil, whisking continuously. Season with a pinch of salt and more lemon juice if needed. Store in the fridge for up to 1 week.
Classic Coleslaw
Feeds 4-5 people, can easily be doubled
1/4-1/2 of a head green cabbage (see note)
1/4- 1/2 of a head red cabbage
2 large carrots
1 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves
1 cup mayonnaise
2-3 Tbsp Dijon mustard
2-3 Tbsp whole grain mustard
2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 tsp celery seed
salt and pepper to taste
Halve the cabbages and cut out the cores. Slice the cabbage as thinly as you can with a sharp knife, or preferably with the slicing blade of a food processor (cut the cabbage into long sections that will fit horizontally in the feed tube). Grate the carrots or shred them in the food processor. Mix the chopped cabbage, shredded carrots and parley. This can keep in a bag for several days.
Mix the remaining ingredients in a bowl. An hour before serving, toss the cabbage mixture with half of the dressing. Add more of the dressing until the cabbage is coated. Adjust the seasoning as needed.