Pasta Alla Zozzona
There is nothing more comforting and addictive than a delicious bowl of carbs. I know that a big old bowl of pasta is not healthy and I simply do not care. That said, I do not want to waste my calories. If I’m going to partake in something unhealthy it has to be truly delicious. This pasta never disappoints. It is reminiscent of a carbonara, with its silky rich texture, but with a bit more interest and kick. Like if pasta carbonara had a love child with jambalaya. It also comes together quick enough to make on a weeknight.
I know I have preached on the rules of making pasta at home but it deserves repeating. There are a few simple tips that transform bland, dry home made pasta dishes from their silky, decadent restaurant counterparts. You can make restaurant worthy pasta from the comfort of your home with extreme ease if you follow these two simple steps:
- Salt your pasta water. Not just a little bit. Salt it so it tastes like the sea.
- Save your pasta cooking water! This s*&t is gold! When you drain your pasta, simply drain a cup or two of the water into a measuring cup. When you add the noodles to the sauce, add some of the water and toss. This carb filled water will help the sauce cling to the noodles and keep your pasta from drying out. Also make sure not to use too large of a pot when you cook the pasta- you want the water to contain lots of starch.
There you go- you are now a pasta master.
Pasta Alla Zozzona
From Serious Eats
3 large egg yolks
2 ounces (60 g) finely grated Parmesan cheese
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces pancetta or guanciale, cut into 1/4 inch thick batons (see note)
6 ounces (170 g) hot Italian sausage (2 links), removed from casing
1 small onion, finely chopped
pinch red pepper flakes (optional)
2 cups tomato passata (see note)
12 ounces (340 g) rigatoni
In a small bowl, beat egg yolks and cheese together with a fork until they form a homogeneous thick paste, about 1 minute. Season with a few grinds of black pepper and set aside.
In a large skillet, cook the pancetta over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally until the fat has rendered and the pancetta is golden brown a crisp, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a paper-towel lined plate and set aside.
Add the sausage to the skillet, pinching off (or breaking up with a spoon) into 1 inch chunks, arranging in a single layer on the pan. Cook over medium heat, undisturbed, until the bottom side is light golden brown, about 1 minute. Add the onion, season lightly with salt, and using a thin metal spatula, turn the sausage pieces onto the uncooked side. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the sausage is cooked through, the onion is softened, and the fat in the pan is clear and no longer cloudy, 5-7 minutes. Lower the heat if the sausage or onions get too dark.
Add the pepper flakes (if using) and bloom in the rendered fat until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Add the tomato passata, season lightly with salt, and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened slightly and the fat has emulsified into the sauce, about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a pot of salted boiling water, cook the pasta until softened on the exterior, but well shy of al dente (about 3 minutes less than the package directs- don’t worry it will finish cooking in the sauce). Using a spider skimmer, transfer the pasta to the sauce, along with ½ cup of the pasta cooking water. Transfer 1/4 of the pasta cooking water to the bowl with the reserved egg yolk mixture, and stir until combined. [Alternatively, you can drain the pasta in the colander, but make sure to save at least 2 cups of the pasta cooking water!]
Increase the heat to high and cook, stirring and tossing rapidly, until the pasta is al dente and the sauce is thickened and coats the noodles, about 2 minutes, adding more pasta cooking water as needed.
Remove the skillet from the heat, add the cooked pancetta and egg yolk mixture, and stir and toss rapidly until fully incorporated and the pasta is glossy, 15-30 seconds. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately, topped with more grated cheese.
Note: Pancetta or guanciale is preferable to bacon. Bacon will impart a smoky flavour that is not traditional to the sauce. Passata is a version of canned tomatoes which have been blended until smooth. You can substitute whole peeled tomatoes, but blend them before adding to the sauce.