Falafel
Chickpeas are an amazingly versatile legume. Yet I feel like they go relatively unappreciated on this side of the ‘pond’. How does the same bean produce creamy hummus, add crispy morsels to an otherwise bland salad, provide sustenance to a bowl of chili, and fry up to a crispy dough?? ‘”God bless a chickpea”
The first time I tried a falafel was really by accident. I mixed up my usual Shawarma sandwich with a friend’s and was blown away. Like most of my favourite takeout, I felt summoned to try and recreate an equal version at home. When I came across Yotam Ottolenghi’s cookbook Jerusalem, I knew the search was over. I could have proper, delicious falafel anytime I wanted…which is often.
For a proper falafel you must use dried chickpeas. You cannot substitute a canned chickpea and expect them to stay together. They will fall apart in the oil and you will be sad. While a dried chickpea requires some forethought (you cannot satisfy an ‘I want falafel and I want it now’ craving), it adds only a minute of extra work and its a lot cheaper. Get on the dried bean bandwagon!
What sets this recipe apart from other, inferior ones, is the use of a meat grinder. If you have access to a meat grinder, it’s worth pulling out. The consistency is spot-on and rivals my favourite Shawarma joint. If you do not own a meat grinder, you can use your food processor. Make sure to only pulse for 30-40 seconds; until chopped and combined but not pureed. You don’t want to pulverize the chickpeas.
Falafel
Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi, Jerusalem
Serves: 4 (15-20 falafels)
1 1/4 cup (250g) dried chickpeas
1/2 cup finely chopped onion (about 1/2 onion)
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 Tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 Tbsp finely chopped cilantro
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground coriander
1/4 tsp ground cardamon
1/2 tsp baking powder
3/4 tsp salt
3 Tbsp water
1 1/2 Tbsp all-purpose flour
About 3 cups oil for deep-frying (peanut, vegetable, or canola oil)
1/2 tsp sesame seeds, for coating
The night before, place the chickpeas in a large bowl and cover with cold water at least twice their volume. Set aside to soak overnight.
The next day, drain the chickpeas well and combine with the onion, garlic, parsley, and cilantro. Process the mix through a meat grinder, set to its finest setting, then pass it through the machine for a second time. [Alternatively this can be done with a food processor, see note above]
Add the spices, baking powder, salt, flour, and water. Mix using a wooden spoon until well-blended and smooth. Cover the mixture and leave in the fridge for at least 1 hour.
Fill a deep, heavy-bottomed pan with enough oil to come up to 3 inches on the side of the pan. Heat the oil up to 350F.
Meanwhile, with wet hands, press 1 Tbsp of the mixture in the palm of your hand to form a ball. Repeat until the mixture is gone. Sprinkle the balls evenly with the sesame seeds. Deep fry the balls in batches- 4-5 balls per batch, and fry for 3 to 4 minutes, or until well browned and cooked through. The interior needs time to dry out. Drain in a colander lined with paper towels.
Serve immediately while hot, with warm pita bread, hummus, and a fresh vegetable salad.