Pumpkin Pie

In my house, Thanksgiving is synonymous with pie! Specifically apple and pumpkin pie. While my true heart lies with apple, pumpkin pie only comes once a year and it is all the more special for it.

I have tried numerous pumpkin pie recipes in the past and while they are all delicious, I knew I had to try Stella Park’s recipe. I have spoken about her culinary genius in the past. In her cookbook Bravetart, Stella does a deep dive on all American desserts. Her recipes are well researched, well-tested, and always divine. Stella’s recipes aren’t always the simplest, but if she calls for extra bowls or steps, it is with purpose and will always elevate the taste. Point in case- in this recipe, Stella has you make a quick condensed milk from scratch. Yes, you can substitute the stuff in the can, but this was well worth the extra 45 minutes of effort.

Curiously, Stella recommends using butternut squash instead of pumpkin for her recipe. However, my mother-in-law grew long pie pumpkins this year, and I had to try them out. They were beautiful and looked as though they were designed and grown with the specific intention of pie. I enjoy cooking my pumpkin/squash from scratch, but you are welcome to substitute the canned stuff in a pinch.

Happy Canadian Thanksgiving everyone!

Pumpkin Pie

Adapted Loosely from Stella Park’s Bravetart
Yield: One 9-inch pie

1 medium sugar pumpkin or butternut squash
1 recipe Quick Condensed Milk (below), (2 cups/ 19 ounces)
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar (4 ounces)
1 Tbsp bourbon or vanilla extract
1 1/2 tsp ground ginger
1 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp grated nutmeg
1/4 tsp kosher salt
1/8 tsp ground cloves
2 Tbsp butter, melted (1 ounce)
3 large eggs (straight from the fridge)

1 fully baked all-butter pie crust (single crust)
Whipped cream

Prepare the Pumpkin:
Adjust the oven rack to the lower middle position and preheat to 400F. Split the pumpkin lengthwise, scoop out the seeds, and place cut side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Roast until fork-tender about 45 minutes.

When the squash is cool enough to handle, use a large spoon to scrape out the pulp. Pulse in a food processor until smooth. Measure out 1 3/4 cups (14 ounces) of squash puree. Use warm, or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Make the Pie

Make sure your pie shell is fully baked and cooled.

Adjust the oven rack to the lower-middle position and preheat to 375F. In a medium bowl whisk the squash puree, condensed milk, brown sugar, vanilla, ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, cloves, butter and eggs until smooth. Pout into the baked crust, place on an aluminum baking sheet, and bake until the custard has puffed into a gentle dome, about 25 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350F and continue baking until the custard is firm around the edges but still wobbly in the very center, about 25 minutes more. An instant-read thermometer should read 200F in the very center of the filling, 210F if the probe touches the crust.

Let cool at room temperature until the custard is set, about 2 hours. Cut the pie with a chef’s knife and serve with whipped cream.

Wrapped in plastic wrap, leftovers will keep for up to 4 days at room temperature.

Quick Condensed Milk
Yield: 2 cups

4 cups (32 ounces) milk (any percentage is fine)
3/4 cup (6 ounces) heavy cream
1 cup (7 ounces) sugar
1/8 tsp kosher salt

Combine the milk, cream, sugar, and salt in a 5-quart stainless steel saucepan. If using a scale, weigh the pot and ingredients together so you can digitally track the reduction. When complete, the pot will weigh 26 ounces less than when you started.

Place over medium heat, stirring occasionally with a heat resistant spatula, until the milk begins to simmer, about 12 minutes. Continue cooking another 30 minutes more, scraping often to prevent a milky buildup from forming around the sides. When the thickened milk syrup suddenly begins to foam and darkens in colour it’s almost done. Keep simmering and stirring until the foam subsides and the dairy has condensed to exactly 2 cups or 19 ounces.

Pour into an airtight container and seal to prevent evaporation. It will keep refrigerated for up to 1 month. Bring to room temperature before using.

Note: if your milk takes much longer than 12 minutes to simmer, turn up the temperature. Similarly if it begins to simmer much faster reduce the temperature o medium-low.